In a groundbreaking move, Danish fashion brand Ganni utilized bacteria to cultivate a one-of-a-kind edition of its Bou Bag. This exclusive creation, made from a leather alternative by London's Modern Synthesis, stands out for its eco-friendly composition devoid of plastic or petrochemicals. Showcased at the Material Matters fair during the London Design Festival, the handbag's unique construction involved the cultivation of nanocellulose—a fiber produced by specific bacteria—over a framework of threads.
The Result
Up-close shot of the revolutionary leather alternative made by Modern Synthesis
Ganni proudly unveiled this exceptional edition of the Bou Bag crafted from bacterial nanocellulose. The result is a textile that mimics the luxurious drape of cowhide while potentially generating up to 65 times fewer greenhouse gas emissions than traditional leather, as asserted by Modern Synthesis. Crucially, this material achieves durability without relying on any plastic coating, a notable departure from Ganni's previous bacterial nanocellulose jacket introduced at the Global Fashion Summit in July. However, it's worth noting that the bag still features a lining containing plastic microfiber.
Partnership and Process
This innovative leather alternative, developed by Modern Synthesis, marks a significant step towards sustainable fashion. The collaborative efforts of Ganni and Modern Synthesis aim to make this pioneering handbag commercially available by early 2025. Modern Synthesis CEO Jen Keane expressed enthusiasm about the collaboration, stating, "Collaborating with Ganni on the Bou Bag has allowed us to showcase the viability of bacterial cellulose-based materials in real-world applications."
Nanocellulose growing on supportive thread framework
Developed during Keane's graduate degree at Central Saint Martins, the material's production involves growing bacteria on a supportive scaffold of threads, feeding it with agricultural waste. The resulting nanocellulose, eight times stronger than stainless steel relative to its weight, can either biodegrade or be recycled based on the type of thread used in the framework. While Modern Synthesis secured $4.1 million (£3.3m) in seed funding last year to scale up production, achieving true commercial scale remains a work in progress. Keane emphasized the importance of maintaining quality while striving for sustainability.
The Future
The company is actively working with Ganni to find alternatives for the plastic microfiber lining, aiming for a 100% cellulose-based version of the Bou Bag. Ganni's foray into material innovation includes investments in Mylo mycelium leather and Pyratex's banana-waste fabric Element 2 as part of its Fabrics of the Future initiative. The brand is committed to eliminating all virgin leather from its products by the end of this year.
The Material Matters exhibition, featured at the London Design Festival 2023 from September 20 to 23, provides a platform to explore such cutting-edge initiatives. For more information on this event and other noteworthy exhibitions, installations, and talks, refer to our comprehensive guide on Dezeen Events Guide.
The ’Bacteria’ Bou Bag